Coonoor, Tamil Nadu

A 7.5 hour drive from Bangalore, Coonoor is a quaint little hill station near Ooty. It recently came in the limelight because of a Bollywood movie called Kapoor & sons which was shot there. Before that it was visited by the off beat travelers.

(Instagram- thefanatictraveller)

Nestled in the Nilgiris this town is a much better option than Ooty these days. It is less crowded and more personal. We took the road via Salem to get there, which is a slightly longer but faster route. The drive is also very scenic compared to the mysore- bandipur highway. There are 3-4 toll booths which are the only bottlenecks.

(Instagram- thefanatictraveller)

Coonoor is famous for its heritage properties, home made chocolates and cosy vibes. We went in May and the weather was a pleasant 20 degrees. There are several nice places to stay, like:

1. Kurumba resort- away from the town

2. Taj gateway- in the heart of coonoor

But since we don’t like to splurge too much on stay, we picked the 200yr old heritage property called Wallwood by Neemrana. It cost INR 5000 a night and looked quite decent.

We booked a room called “Camphor” which had a lovely balcony overlooking the estate and was away from the noise of the main house. If you are a couple that wants to avoid families then I strongly recommend Camphor. The rooms in the main house can get very noisy during meals since the dining area is right there.

This room was quite basic but had everything we needed including privacy. Also the food at this hotel was really tasty and homely. The staff was very helpful too. The hotel is located bang in the middle of the town and is close to all the touristy places.

Although we didn’t go to any 😉

What we did was breathe, eat, drink, drive around and sleep.

(Instagram- thefanatictraveller)

One day we went to a place which was called 43 hair pin bends on the map. This is a very popular biking route with breathtaking views of the mountains. The drive took us through lovely tea gardens coupled with thick woods. We even saw a family of wild Indian Gaur on the way!

On the way back we passed the Lovedale boarding school. A campus like no other! It really felt like we were in the UK countryside. You must try and take a look while you are there.

Some Places to eat and drink in coonoor are:

1. Hopscotch- a nice pub

2. Cullinarium- lovely food

3. Cafe McIver- nice place to chill

4. Taj gateway- good for a snack

5. Wellington club – if you have a army connection

(Instagram- thefanatictraveller)

All in all, it was a nice laid back holiday in the peak of summer. There are some nice walking trails and also lakes that one can explore.

Waterfalls are in plenty too if you are interested. But do not go to Coonoor seeking activities. Go there for the warmth, and the chill 😉

My verdict: A lazy little hill station where there is no rat race. Enjoy the clean air and poor service 🙂

My rating: 3.5/5 Wallwood Neemrana was ideal for us since we were out the most of the day. Food was excellent. Total value for money.

Bandhavgarh, Madhya Pradesh, India

I am a wildlife enthusiast, but Bandhavgarh always eluded me. Simply because of the poor connectivity from Bangalore. One needs at least 5 days off to plan a trip there. And the fact that it touches 45 degrees in summer just added to the inertia. But that finally ended in April 2017. I decided to book the flight to Jabalpur, via Hyderabad and then drive 3.5 hrs to the famous Tiger reserve in the scorching heat. Jabalpur is the closest airport and Katni the nearest station. The entire trip was organized by http://www.learn.sudhirshivaram.com and I must say it was a fabulous experience!

(Cover photo by Sharmila Sur)

The Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is spread over 1161.471 sq. km. area with following details:

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Constitutes
Area
(In Sq. Kms.)
Bandhavgarh National Park
448.842
Panpatha Wildlife Sanctuary
245.842
Buffer Zone Area
466.787

An area of about 207 sq. km. has been declared as tourism zone within the Park*. This area has further been divided in three tourism zones. Each area has its own flora & fauna diversification. Below given table provides names of Safari zones in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve where one can do wildlife safari with description of maximum limit of safari jeeps allowed each time.

Safari Zones
Safari Vehicle Limit
Morning – Evening
Tala (Gate-1, Premium Zone)
20 – 20
Magadhi (Gate-2, Non-premium Zone)
20 – 20
Khitauli (Gate-3, Non-premium Zone)
16 – 15

*Source- (http://www.bandhavgarh.co.uk/bandhavgarh-park-safari.html)

Bandhavgarh is one of the best known safari parks in India for tiger sightings. The tourism here is very mature, so one has a wide variety of choices for accommodation unlike some of the other parks in the country. We were booked in Kings Lodge which is very close to the forest entry gates. As you know, in India, one has to get to the entry gates early to improve one’s chances of spotting a tiger and also to reduce the chance of getting dust in your face throughout the safari 🙂 Therefore, having a hotel close to the gates really helps. The website of the resort is http://www.kingslodge.in

There are 3 forest gates -Tala, Khitauli and Magadhi. Among these three safari zones, Tala Zone is oldest and most popular. Its name “Tala” is derived from the local Tala village at which the entrance gate is located. Before year 2010, it was the only safari zone in which jungle safaris were done. Other two zones were closed for tourists.

Tala is the prettiest zone, with its bright green Saal trees, many natural watering holes, the Bandhavgarh fort, and the “table mountain look alike” hill right in the middle of the zone. It is also a premium zone, and costs more than the other 2. Tigers are thriving in this zone with more than 3 mothers with cubs. Summer is the best time to spot them.

bdg6

(Tala Zone. Photo by- Sudhir Shivaram)

We had 6 safaris in all, which were divided equally between Tala and Magadhi. Morning safaris started at 5:45am till 10:45am. Evening safaris were from 4pm to 7pm. Bandhavgarh was just brimming with cubs when we were there. Both the zones showed us the most amazing sightings! We saw 8 different tigers in all, including 4 cubs.

Magadhi had three 4-month old cubs who gave us a real show! It was an experience of a life time. Never before had I witnessed a male tiger attend to the cubs. This zone is full of bamboo shoots and is not as green as Tala. There are fewer watering holes in Magadhi, which actually increases your chances of spotting a tiger!

bdg

(4-month old cubs stalking a jungle fowl. Photo by-Anirban Roychowdhury)

bdg12

(Dad and daughter. Photo by-Sudhir Shivaram)

Kings Lodge was just the perfect accommodation for us. Splurging on a 5-star such as the TAJ would be a sheer waste according to me, because nearly 8 hours  a day are spent in the park. However, Kings Lodge was a luxury resort with the right balance of hospitality and affordability. The cottages here were spacious and well done. And the service was really good. We were greeted with cold towels and chilled lime juice after every safari.

The cuisine was mostly north Indian, but one could place special requests and they oblige. The resort also has a small pool and spa. The massage service was quite good and authentic. Kings Lodge has some of the best safari drivers, which is a priceless asset in the forest. You cannot control the guide you get, but the drivers can be hand picked. We were very happy with their skill, manners and punctuality.

bdg0

All in all, Bandhavgarh was delightful. It exceeding all expectations of tiger sightings. After Tadoba, this is the only park where I had a 100% hit rate.

My verdict: I would highly recommend Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh. It has a good mix of luxury and hospitality without taking away the forest experience. One can hear animal calls in the night, making it a very exciting choice of accommodation.

My rating: 4.5/5 Very little to complain about.

Travel Tip: Try to book the rooms closer to the dining area especially if you want to avoid the long walk to and from your room in the summer. Rooms 1-6 are close by.

See more of my travel pics on Instagram @thefanatictraveller.

Photo credits:

Sudhir Shivaram Photography- https://www.facebook.com/SudhirShivaramPhotography/

Anirban Roychowdhury- https://www.facebook.com/anirban.roychowdhury.1610

Sharmilas Photography- https://www.facebook.com/sharmilas.photography/

Greece in September- Part 1 (Athens-Melia Hotel)

I always wanted to see Greece not because of all its history and ancient monuments, but for its natural beauty and the pristine beaches. I am not too much into historical places so this was not about educating myself on the age old items retrieved from the sea bed, or the slabs of marble erected in 500 B.C, but more about seeing the best waters, meeting good looking people and having the world’s best yogurts 🙂

Since we decided to go during season time- September, we had to book a little in advance in order to get great deals on hotels with great locations. Booking 4 months in advance is the best thing we did. I will tell you why a bit later. The itinerary we followed was:

Day 1- Fly from Mumbai to Athens. Night at Athens

Day 2- Explore Athens. Night at Athens

Day 3- Early morning ferry to Mykonos. Night at Mykonos

Day 4- Explore Mykonos. Night at Mykonos

Day 5- Next day take the ferry to Santorini

Day 5, 6,7- At Santorini

Day 8- Head to Paros, Noussa. Night at Paros

Day 9- Night at Paros

Day 10- Fly to Athens. Then to Mumbai.

There were some key decisions I had to make while planning this trip. First, the per head budget. Second, which airline to fly. Third, the order of cities/islands to visit. Fourth, whether to take the slow ferry or the fast ferry between islands. Or to opt for a flight instead. Fifth, which area to stay in once we reach the island.

All these decisions were inter-dependent, making my task that much harder. So I started with the budget. I kept 1.5lacs as the per head expense. And then looked at the fastest flight to Athens from Mumbai. Sadly the fastest flight was not the cheapest. So we opted for Qatar airways which had a 6 hour break at Doha but was the most reasonable. The flight back was much quicker though.

Then came the order of islands to visit. I initially wanted to see Mykonos, Santorini and Naxos in that order. But there was no early morning ferry or flight out of Naxos to Athens for us to catch our connecting flight to Mumbai the same day. Going to Naxos would mean leaving the previous evening for Athens and spending an extra night in the city, only to catch an afternoon flight to Mumbai. That seemed like a waste of time and money.

That’s when I looked at Paros. An island which lies to the west of Naxos, Paros is known for nonchalant beaches and wind surfing. Also the smaller island of Antiparos, 1km southwest of Paros, is easily reached by car ferry or excursion boat. Paros had an early morning flight out to Athens and that allowed us to catch the connecting flight back home the same day.

We also decided to book cabs in advance for both airport and pier transfers because the ferries and flights were all in the wee hours of the morning. So we really did not want to take a chance. This turned out to be a good decision again because not only was it convenient, the pre-booking rates were widely different from actual taxi charges on the concerned day.

The slow ferries had no contest with the fast ones because both my husband and I have sea-sickness. So we were more than willing to pay the premium to save a few hours at sea. Now I know, by that logic we should have flown to the islands, but affordability took precedence there 🙂

Finally, there was the decision on hotels. Once the itinerary was finalized, I did some research on the best areas to stay in on each island. You get a lot of contradictory information online about such stuff. Even travel agents or online portals do not give you a clear picture because they are not local. So I spoke to a few friends who had been to Greece and understood the best locations to stay at. This really helped and we landed up choosing hotels with the best views of the sea at very reasonable prices. We went with makemytrip for all our final bookings- transfers, hotels and tickets. No, it was not a group booking and no they did not decide the hotels, or the flights. They just booked at the best price.

Day 1& 2- Melia Hotel, Athens

http://www.melia.com/en/hotels/greece/athens/melia-athens/index.html

Our flight to Athens was quite tiring because of the long halt at Doha. We landed at around 6 pm local time. So the entire day was pretty much lost. We headed straight for the hotel. The drive was nothing to write home about. Athens is a city which looks robbed. There is graffiti on practically every wall and the buildings are quit dilapidated. Everyone on the streets looks depressed or angry with life. Quite unimpressive really.

We were told not to spend too much on the hotel in Athens and to choose a safe area like Plaka. Our first priority was Hotel Acropolis Select or Fresh Hotel. But both were overbooked. So we decided on Hotel Melia which was slightly more expensive.Walking distance from the National Archaeological Museum, the Greek Parliament and the National Library, Melia is a very centrally located hotel. You have the hop on hop off bus stop just a few blocks away and a great view of the Parthenon from the roof top restaurant and bar.

DSC02532     DSC02623

When we arrived at the hotel, the reception staff was very courteous and helpful. They explained everything about the hotel to us very clearly and were extremely patient. And the lobby was small but very contemporary. However, when we entered the room, we found it a bit small. And there was not much of a view. But our bathroom was nice and spacious with a bath tub and a separate showering area. The coolest thing about the room was the fact that the TV Radio was connected to the speakers inside the bathroom 🙂 and one could listen to music while bathing!

DSC02610  DSC02615
Get this-our friends who were staying in a hotel next door, having paid the same tariff, found our room massive because apparently theirs was half the size. So I am guessing in general the rooms are pretty small in Athens.

The breakfast at the Melia was excellent!! The breakfast area was a bit small but the spread was not. It was the best part of our stay here. The perfect start to the day. The hotel was really sweet to pack us breakfast on the 2nd day before our early morning ferry to Mykonos.

Athens has quite a few remarkable things to see. Including the night life in the old town, Plaka. But don’t spend more than 1-2 days here. Head straight for the islands 🙂

DSC02554  DSC02570

My verdict: The hotel website is pretty honest and a little exaggeration does not hurt anyone. But Melia is the best for tourists who want to stay closer to the museums and the national library. Pubs and bars are 2kms away.

My rating: 4/5 We had nothing to complain about. And the breakfast was delicious! So thumbs up!